Science, Stories and Stone: My Research Journey in Edinburgh
By Sunandan Mukherjee, Laboratory of Bioinformatics and Protein Engineering, International Institute of Molecular and Cell Biology in Warsaw
When we think of a research visit abroad, we often imagine long hours in the lab, scientific discussions, and perhaps the occasional sightseeing weekend. My journey to the Institute of Genomics and Cancer (IGC) at the University of Edinburgh, however, has been something far richer—an immersive blend of cutting-edge science, deep-rooted culture, and genuine human connection. It’s an experience that has reminded me that research isn’t just about data and discoveries; it’s about people, perspectives, and the places that inspire us.
🌍 Arriving in a New Country, and a Warm Welcome
There’s something uniquely energizing about stepping into a new country to work. The air feels different, conversations sound different, and suddenly, even everyday things, like your morning coffee or your bus ride to work, feel like part of an adventure.
From the moment I arrived at the University of Edinburgh, I felt genuinely welcomed. People at the Institute of Genomics and Cancer were kind, helpful, and open. Whether it was getting help with practical matters, understanding local research workflows, or simply finding the best lunch spot nearby, someone was always ready to lend a hand.
One of my favorite spots in the building quickly became a small student library tucked into a corner of the hallway. It isn’t large, but it has an impressive personality. Shelves filled with different genres, including (but not limited to) volumes on leadership, project management, history, biographies, and well-being. It feels like a thoughtful space, a reminder that being a good researcher isn’t only about technical expertise, but also about growing as a well-rounded person.Just beside it, a few cozy sofas in the corridor invite spontaneous discussions, the kind of informal, idea-rich conversations that often lead to creative breakthroughs. Those little details, simple yet intentional, reflect a culture that values both intellectual depth and human connection.
🔬 Scientific Smoothness: Collaboration Without Bureaucracy
One of the things that immediately stood out to me at IGC was the effortless way science happens. Collaboration is smooth, communication is clear, and there’s a refreshing lack of unnecessary red tape. The focus was clearly on doing science, not on managing it. This kind of efficiency creates an atmosphere of scientific trust and agility, people collaborate easily, share ideas freely, and move projects forward quickly. The institute’s infrastructure also supports this mindset: modern lab spaces, shared computational resources, and an environment that encourages both independence and teamwork.
In such a setting, it’s easy to see why cross-disciplinary projects flourish. The intersection of computational biology, molecular biology, and genomics at IGC is not just a statement on paper, it’s alive in the way people interact, brainstorm, and innovate together.
🧠 My Research: Modeling Viral RNA in 3D
During my stay, I have been working under the mentorship of Prof. Grzegorz Kudła, focusing on high-resolution modeling of viral genomic RNA. RNA viruses are fascinating. Their genomes are made of RNA, not DNA, and the way this RNA folds into three-dimensional structures plays a key role in how the virus behaves, how it replicates, interacts with the host, and even how severe the infection becomes. Imagine a blueprint that doesn’t just carry instructions but also folds itself into a complex, functional machine—that’s the magic of RNA.
In my project, I combine computational modeling, techniques such as molecular simulations and RNA structure prediction (that I learned at IIMCB), with experimental biochemical data from probing and mapping studies. The goal is to understand how the RNA’s structure influences its function and, ultimately, how we might disrupt these structures to design new therapeutic approaches.
Working at IGC has given me access to exceptional resources, both technical and intellectual, to pursue this goal. The institute’s open, collaborative environment makes it easy to discuss ideas, exchange data, and test hypotheses quickly. I’m also gaining new methodological perspectives that I hope to take back to my home institute, IIMCB, as part of the RACE-GO (Teaming) programme.
This experience is not only enriching my scientific skills but also strengthening the collaborative bridge between IIMCB and the University of Edinburgh, aligning perfectly with RACE’s mission of advancing RNA and cell biology through international partnerships.
🏰 Edinburgh: A City of Stories, Science, and Stone
Outside the lab, Edinburgh itself feels like a living storybook. It’s a city that never fails to surprise you, majestic stone buildings, winding cobbled streets, and sudden glimpses of mountains or the sea as you turn a corner.
It’s easy to see why J.K. Rowling found inspiration here for the Harry Potter series. The city brims with imagination, every close (narrow alleyway) and every old building seems to whisper a piece of history. You can feel centuries of thought, creativity, and discovery layered into its architecture.
Yet, Edinburgh’s magic isn’t confined to its storybooks; it’s etched deep into the annals of science. The University of Edinburgh, a cornerstone of learning since 1583, has served as a crucible for generations of pioneering thinkers. It was here that a young Charles Darwin studied medicine before setting sail on the voyage that would forever change our understanding of life. In physics, the city nurtured James Clerk Maxwell, whose groundbreaking theory of electromagnetism laid the foundations for much of modern technology. More recently, Nobel laureate Peter Higgs expanded our cosmic horizons with 
his work on the mass of subatomic particles, famously known as the “God particle.” The city also stands as a landmark in medical history. In 1847, at his home at 52 Queen Street, James Young Simpson unveiled the anesthetic powers of chloroform—a discovery that gained global fame when Queen Victoria used it during childbirth. Following in this innovative spirit, Joseph Lister revolutionized medicine by introducing antiseptic surgical techniques, saving countless lives. These are not just historical footnotes; they are the giants whose intellectual footsteps echo through the city’s streets.
Walking through the city, you’re constantly reminded that these discoveries didn’t emerge in isolation, they were born from a tradition of intellectual openness that still defines Edinburgh today. The same streets that once carried students and professionals, residing in the same tenement, debating philosophy and medicine now lead to laboratories exploring RNA biology, genomics, and artificial intelligence. The city’s rich history of science and discovery (along with the darker side) is a story I hope to share in a future post!
Even the city’s history is now being rediscovered through the lens of modern science. For example, facial reconstruction projects have brought new life to remains uncovered in the medieval graveyard of St. Giles’ Cathedral (home of the most important religious reformer in the history of Scotland, John Knox), using a mix of 3D modeling, forensic anthropology, and genomic analysis. These efforts blend art and data, showing how modern science can literally give a face to history, connecting us more vividly with the people who once lived here.
A short distance away, at the Roslin Institute, another of Edinburgh’s scientific milestones was achieved: the cloning of Dolly the sheep in 1996, the first mammal ever cloned from an adult cell. That groundbreaking experiment not only reshaped genetics and developmental biology but also placed Edinburgh at the forefront of biotechnology and regenerative medicine. Today, the same institute continues to lead in animal genomics, precision breeding, and synthetic biology, pushing the boundaries of what life science can achieve.
This coexistence of past and future, medieval cathedrals beside genome sequencers, cobblestones beside supercomputers, gives Edinburgh a unique identity. It’s a city where every era seems to converse with the next, where curiosity feels timeless.
What makes Edinburgh truly special, though, is its diversity. People from all over the world live, study, and work here, creating an atmosphere that feels both global and intimate. You can have breakfast with researchers from five different continents and end the day discussing literature or travel over coffee with someone you just met at a seminar.
On one side of the city lies the sea and sandy beaches, perfect for a weekend stroll; on the other, the hills and mountains, like Arthur’s Seat, offer breathtaking views after a short hike. The combination of natural beauty and intellectual vibrancy makes Edinburgh a city that constantly recharges your curiosity.
🚌 Getting Around: Practical Notes on the Everyday
The public transport system in Edinburgh deserves a mention. It’s efficient, clean, and
connects most parts of the city with ease. Buses and trams run frequently and are easy to navigate even for newcomers. The only drawback, like many cities in the UK, is that it’s not exactly cheap. Still, the convenience and coverage make it worthwhile, especially if you use contactless payment or transport passes.
What’s particularly charming is how accessible culture and nature are. Almost all museums and galleries are free, and the public gardens are open, beautifully maintained, and welcoming. Spending a quiet afternoon in the Royal Botanic Garden or the National Museum feels like part of daily life rather than a special outing, a gentle balance between work and reflection.
🏠 The Challenge of Finding Accommodation
If there’s one thing I would advise future visitors about, it’s accommodation. Finding a place to stay in Edinburgh can be challenging, the housing market is competitive, and prices are relatively high.
My suggestion for anyone planning a research visit here: start your search early. Look well in advance, and be cautious about offers that seem too good to be true, unfortunately, rental scams do exist, especially online. It’s safest to use verified letting agencies, or recommendations from colleagues.
That said, once you find a suitable place, Edinburgh quickly feels like home. The neighborhoods are friendly, well-connected, and full of character. Whether it’s a small studio near the Meadows or a flat overlooking the old town, you’ll soon have your favorite café, your quiet park bench, and your route to work that feels just right.
💬 Reflections: What Makes a Research Visit Truly Valuable
A research visit is often described as an opportunity to learn new techniques or exchange ideas, and while that’s true, it’s only part of the story. What makes it truly valuable is the broader experience: immersing yourself in a new scientific culture, learning how another institution works, and seeing how science thrives in a different ecosystem.
At IGC, I’ve seen how simplicity, openness, and efficiency can make a research environment thrive. At the same time, living in Edinburgh, a city steeped in history yet vibrantly modern, constantly reminds me of how deeply curiosity is woven into human progress.
This visit has been a reminder that science, at its heart, is a global conversation. Every collaboration, every shared dataset, and every informal chat over coffee adds a small but meaningful piece to the larger puzzle of understanding life.
🌟 Looking Ahead
As my time at the University of Edinburgh continues, I look forward to deepening collaborations, refining models, and sharing insights that may one day contribute to understanding viral RNA and its role in disease. More importantly, I hope to carry home not just scientific results, but also the spirit of open collaboration and the joy of discovery that this visit has given me.
Research visits like this, supported by programs such as RACE-GO (Teaming), play a crucial role in building connections across borders, blending expertise, and shaping the next generation of interdisciplinary research.
To anyone considering a similar experience: take the leap. Go. Learn. Observe. Immerse yourself in another research culture. The rewards, both scientific and personal, are immense.
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