Edinburgh neighbourhoods: Leith
By Krishna, from St. Andrews Scotland, studying Economics
For such a small city, Edinburgh is exceptionally diverse in character and history, Leith being a great example of this. Leith is north-east of the city centre and was historically an independent burgh, and only as recently as 1920 was amalgamated into Edinburgh. Locals fiercely opposed the merger, and that distinct independent identity remains central to Leith today. This lends to its unique character, something I observed on my first visit, and is one of the things I appreciate most about the area.
A day in Leith
The Shore
I get off the bus and walk down to the Shore, the song “Sunshine On Leith” by The Proclaimers loops in my headphones as I turn the corner onto the waterfront. This area is built around the mouth of the Water of Leith as it flows into the Firth of Forth and is Leith’s historic dockland.
Custom House/Lane
Leith Market
Directly adjacent to Custom House is the Leith market, which takes place 10am to 4pm on Saturdays. Vegetables, fruits, baked goods, plants, vinyl records, street food, and souvenirs are available.
Brown’s of Leith
This ex-engineering works has recently been converted into an upmarket food and drinks venue. Get small plates, wine, coffee, pizza, and artisanal beer here. The venue itself is worth visiting if only for the fantastic job that has been done on the conversion.
Domenico’s
At this juncture you may feel peckish, so let me direct you to my go-to food stop in the area. This little Italian deli offers a sit-in menu, but also a range of freshly made sandwiches that you can take to-go. I usually opt for Flat Stanley, a sandwich made up of deli meats, mozzarella, and pesto, and ask for it to be toasted – £7.
Roseleaf
About two minutes away is Roseleaf, an eccentric pub which possesses the traditional charm one may be accustomed to, with some additional edge in the form of out-of-place décor and kooky clientele. If I had to choose one pub in Leith to spend an evening – or day – it would be this one. Half-pint Leith Juice Session IPA – £3.25.
Leith Walk
I start to make my way up Leith Walk – the main artery of Leith – stopping intermittently to inspect a shop/café/restaurant that catches my eye. It seems every time I take this route, I find a new “regular;” as such, my walks take longer and longer. I cheat a bit here as some of my picks are technically not within Leith, but close enough and on The Walk, so I feel compelled to include them. They are marked with a star (*). Locally, the boundary is handily designated by the Boundary Bar off Iona Street.
Argonaut Books
A community-oriented bookshop at the Foot of The Walk. Beyond the nice décor and great selection of books, it has a wee café that sells very reasonably priced hot drinks (all £2.50). I like to use the little coin machine at the back, which upon inserting a £1 coin you receive a small print from a local artist.
Out of the Blue Drill Hall
Just off the walk is this community arts centre which is a converted army barracks. It hosts exhibitions, film screenings, markets, and has a café/restaurant.
Sculptures*
Dotted around the top of The Walk are sculptures by Eduardo Paolozzi, a renowned artist and Leith native. There are also some by other notable artists. I am particularly fond of the Flock of Pigeons statue by Shona Kinloch.
Topping & Company Book Shop*
This great big bookshop is a place to visit as regularly as one can – full of charm and knowledgeable staff. If you loiter around for long enough, as I often do, you may be offered a cup of tea.
Getting to Leith from campus
It is a generally spread myth that Leith is far from campus. Please do not let this deter you as it is simply not true.
Walking (approx. 50 minutes):
Head north on Nicolson Street, over North Bridge, bear right past the St. James Centre and continue down Leith Walk and follow signage for The Shore once you have reached the foot of Leith Walk.
By bus (approx. 25 minutes):
Take the 35 towards Ocean Terminal from Forrest Road. Get off at The Shore. Use the tap system if you can, or if you are under 22, you may apply for a NEC card for free bus travel.
Tram
Catch it from any Princes Street tram stop and get off at the foot of Leith Walk.
Accessibility
Step-free routes are possible on this itinerary; however, it has significant hills at times.
I have provided links to some of the venues discussed; these should be consulted for specific accessibility information.
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