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This space has been created as a way to share, support and inspire those interested in Textiles and Digital Printing here at ECA, as well as across the wider University of Edinburgh.
Over the course of the last two years, for her MFA project, Laura has been working on OJO! (oh hoh) ; a textile protest project that looks at Colombia’s ongoing civil war, and the ways textiles and design can be used as tools to spread awareness of this issue, both within local and international communities. A conflict that has lasted for decades, this project aims to encourage people to look harder, to challenge and ultimately become more consciously aware of the issues currently present in Colombia.
Within her project, Laura explores how textiles, and textile processes can highlight conflict, as well as how they can be used as a form of protest. Inspired by traditional techniques such as Mola; Colombian/Panamanian indigenous reverse appliqué textile technique, and Camouflage, Laura has designed and created a range of textiles that look to protect scared cultures, as well as those fighting to protect it and their lives.
Laura has explored, both at home and within ECA, screen printing, digital textiles and CAD Embroidery techniques. We love how inventive Laura’s been with combining techniques, in particular her experimentation with adding surface decoration to bullet proof materials, through CAD Embroidery and silk screen printing. Through access to the facilities at ECA, for her final showpiece, Laura created a conceptual bullet proof vest that combined and used the techniques mentioned above. You can see the final outcome of this in the photos above & below.
We know this project is just the start for Laura. We can’t wait to see where it takes you and how it grows with time. If you’re interested in Laura’s work, her concept of protest textiles please check out her website. There is a whole host of information on here, as well as a great short video she’s put together about her work.
Close up of Bullet Proof vest showing CAD Embroidery and Silk screen print.
Speculative land: Digital drawing and textile digital printing, steel square bar. Dimensions Variable. Edinburgh, 2021
For our second Student Spotlight post, we would like to introduce you to the work of Valentina Lobos Munoz. Valentina is one of this year’s graduating MFA Contemporary Art’s students. Over the last year I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know Valentina and her work, as we’ve explored fabric and printing options via the digital print facilities here at ECA.
Through her work Valentina aims to create a space where elements such as economic, racial and gender roles, can freely be questioned and reorganised, moving “beyond the perception of the land, water and people as resources or commodities.” By focusing on these elements, and how they are visually portrayed, Valentina has created a representational digital visual archive which can be used to create new and alternative realities, ones that reorganise and rearticulate these pre-existing elements. In Valentina’s own words “The virtual realm offers space for infinite combinations.”
Using both Sublimation and Reactive digital printing methods, Valentina has explored a range of textile techniques during her time here at ECA. Her piece titled Speculative Flag features digital drawings, which have been digitally printed within ECA, onto a beautiful Silk Organza. Bird, cotton and mountain, and Armadillo, are also digitally printed, but this time onto a lovely soft velvet using Sublimation prints.
You can find out more about Valentina and her work, including her recent MFA project here, as well as on Instagram. We wish you all the best Valentina, as we do to all this year’s graduating students! We’re excited to see how you’re work, and this project develops.
Speculative flag: Digital drawing and textile digital printing on silk. 300 x 130 cm. Edinburgh 2021
When it comes to printing onto fabric, there are lots of available options, from traditional methods such as Block and Screen Printing to modern techniques like Digital and Sublimation Printing. Each technique has it’s own unique aesthetic and characteristics, as well as pros and cons.
What method you choice to use will largely depend on fabric choice. In some cases you can combine techniques, to create interesting and dynamic textiles.
Here we will cover the main types of printing digitally:
Transfer Printing
This technique allows you to digitally print onto fabric, from home. Imagery is printed onto specialist paper, called Transfer paper, through either inkjet or laser print household printers. Once a design is printed onto the transfer paper, it is transferred onto fabric with a steam iron.
Transfer paper can be purchased online and in shops making it easily accessible. This printing method will leave a shiny film/surface to your fabric, and is not classed as a permanent method of printing, as it can crack, peel and fade with time.
Pros
Accessible printing method
No specialist equipment needed
Great for sampling/small runs
Easy to print and transfer
Cons
Leaves a shiny film/texture to the fabric
Single use transfers
Limited life span; peels, cracks and fades with time/washes
Limited print quality and resolution as well as colour range
Dye Sublimation
Sublimation printing is a sophisticated alternative to transfer printing. A multi-step process, this printing process is suitable for synthetic based fabrics.
Designs are first digitally printed onto thermal transfer paper called Dye Sublimation paper. This paper is then used to print onto fabric through the use of heat and pressure, permanently bonding the inks on paper to the fibres of the fabric. This step is usual done by using an industrial heat press. Once you’re fabric has been printed, it is set and ready to use. As this process uses dyes, the fabric retains it’s original characteristics.
Pros:
Digitally prints are permanent, colourfast & washable
Dye-based inks allow for a wider colour range and colour brightness
Soft handle and feel to fabric, with original fabric characteristics retained
No post-treatment required
Minimal ink and no water wastage
Cons:
Not for use on natural fabrics
Specialist equipment and dyes required
Reactive Printing
Reactive or digitally printing as we call it, is for digitally printing onto natural based fabrics.
This process uses Reactive dyes, which are suitable for printing onto both cellouse (plant) and protein (animal) based fibres. These dyes require fabric to be treated with a specific pre-treatment before printing. Pre-treated or coated fabric, is rolled and loaded onto a digital printer for printing. Imagery is printed when ink passes through the machine’s printer head, in a similar way to an inkjet printer. Once printed, ink is fixed to the fabric through a Steamer. This moist heat causes the inks to react and bond with the fabric. To complete the process, fabric is washed to remove the pre-treatment coating and any excess dye. Once washed, fabric is ready to use.
Pros:
Digitally prints are permanent, colourfast & washable
Dye-based inks allow for a wider colour range and colour brightness
Soft handle and feel to fabric, with original fabric characteristics retained
Inks penetrate fabrics’ extremely well
Minimal ink wastage
Cons
Not for use on synthetic fabrics, natural and pre-coated only
Fabric requires pre-and post-treatment
Specialist equipment and dyes required
Pigment Printing
Pigment printing allows you to print onto most fabric types, including natural and synthetic, making it a popular and versatile printing technique. Designs are printed onto fabric and are set to the fabric using a dry heat, usually through a heated roller or Heat Press machine.
Pros
Print onto a wide range of fabrics in a variety of weights
No fabric pre-treatment necessary
No water or specialized fixation, steaming or washing process required.
Cons
Pigments sit on top of a fabric’s surface rather then being embedded into the fibres.
Pigment binder leaves a coating on top of the fabric
Colour range not as wide as with dye-based inks
As you can see there is a wide range of digitally printing options available, some more accessible than others with their own unique pros and cons. Currently within ECA we offer Reactive and Sublimation digital printing. Whilst we don’t offer digital pigment or transfer printing, we can offer support and guidance with these techniques for anyone interested. Remember you can always get in touch by emailing textiles@ed.ac.uk to speak to one of our textile techniques.
As many continue their studies under tightened COVID restrictions, the importance of accessible online resources remains vital.
At the start of Semester 1 (2020), we set up a SharePoint site for Textile Digital printing resources, to act as an online resource/hub for UoE students and staff. Providing written, as well as visual guides on many of the processes and techniques, this site supplies up-to-date information on these resources. If digital print is something you are curious about and/or if you wish to find out specific information, e.g. what fabric options are available, then this is the place to go.
Example: Screenshot of department’s Sharepoint page
Pleased be aware this site is only accessible to UoE student and staff as the site is help within the UoE Intranet.
Whilst workshops may currently be closed, please remember technician staff are still at hand and able to help you when and where they can, even if it’s just to talk through an idea! Among us we have a vast amount of experience and knowledge to share! Therefore if you come across something that interests you, online or say through the SharePoint site, make sure to get in touch to see how we can help.
Welcome to the first blog post for the Textile Digital Printing department here at Edinburgh College of Art, part of the University of Edinburgh.
This space has been created as a way to share, support and inspire those interested in Textiles and Digital Printing here at ECA, as well as across the wider University of Edinburgh.
Posts will include resource updates as well as insights into materials and processes used or related to digitally printing. This will include topics such as digitally printing onto textiles, using both Reactive and Sublimation printing, CAD (Computer Aided Design) Embroidery, other relatable processes/topics, as well as associated environmental issues. Additionally, this space will be used to share the work of others, including students(both current and alumni) as well as artists and designers, working with textiles and digital techniques/technologies.
Through this space, I hope to help, support and encourage those interested in exploring the wonders of textiles and new technologies.
