Month: November 2020

Whats worked? an overview of exsisting samples!

I started the sampling process off by analysing my exsisting samples, seeing which ones work well and why? questions like, whats the aura of the sample? what do the marks do? why was this sample so effective? in what way did the techniques benefit this sample? these questions provide a thought process which starts the sampling process. by assesing it gives you time to identify and bring forward key aspects of the samples.

personally I chose three of my favourite samples from project one that i felt confident about taking forward. i liked the energy of the embroidery sample, the fight between the calmness of the plastic bag to small detailed areas of the chaotic embroidery clusters. I also choose two weaves, the weaves have an array of techniques that work in a really interesting way together. the conversation between the calm manipulated lighter materials to the arratic clunky manipulated tape measures and chunky knotts is something I want to further explore.

I made a viewfinder out of paper and started to isolate specific interesting areas. having the view finder really magnified techniques, fabric qualities, colour ways and allowed me to question this in a thought provoking way answering the question why did these samples work?

I started to annotate them, isolating key descriptive words which I could use to sample further. this really is an essential part of the design process and it forces you to analyse your work. Taking this into sampling I can look at the most effective techniques like colour ways, material exploration, manipulation techniques e.c.t. This then gives me a basis to start off whist still leaving a lot of room for experimentation.

Sustainability!

Sustainability not only being a massive trend but it becoming essential within the sampling process of textile and fashion design industry. Not to mention the fact were in a global pandemic!!

Having never been in a pandemic the worlds upside down. A positive to taken from this however is a rise in alternative material textiles! which I love. The pandemic has brung an uprise for locally sourced materials e.c.t. this is important as my first project was focused on alternative materials which were sustainably sourced and also locally sourced. This is important to recognise as it gives me a focus to start on, using only locally sourced materials also brings an aspect of personality to the project.

Theres a consumer issue on the rise within fashion, the “need is more” concept and how this is affected by the pandemic. the idea of a de-growth has been a discussion for most fast fashion brands for a while but being in the midst of a pandemic this has esculated, making sustainable thinking become a trend. brands are now thinking more sustainabily, adding in re-designed products with an element of sustainability. this is something which is essential when sampling.

 

The Bradford textile society project!!!

after looking at my recent projects I had established that i work well with alternative materials. I love print so i knew this had to be involved within this project. When looking back at my samples I saw that the first project really stood out, it was innovative and different and as this was embroidery and fabric manipulation I also wanted to use this skillset further. I choose to enter the mixed media catagory as i feel i can create something really unique and individual and use this to my advantage!

I started to look on the WYGSN website at current trends. from the self evaluation i was able to identify that my strength definetly lay in project 1, thew mixture of fabric manipulation, embroidery, print and alternative materials worked in my favour. So regarding this brief I started to look at alternative material trends. I found a really interesting article about the use of materials and how this is essential through the pandemic as materials have become sparse, meaning we need to be more resourceful.

what caught my eye was the use of cord and laces, in project one I used shoe laces to create a fun tactile feel to the weaves so seeing this become a trend was amazing! the concept to this trend is really interesting from the WYGSN they speak about “survival mode” and its extra fitting due to being in the midst of a pandemic.

PRINT AND PATTERN 

whilst using alternative materials is important for this project so too is adding in print. Looking at the current trends print and pattern is trending on the runway.

I then looked into print types, to see which catagory I fit into. I found “painterly handwork” and it was just me! expressive mark-making, super fun and irregular. This printing style was really in, it was a coming trend which really benefitted me. I also feel adding in an expressive fun print also relates to the pandemic, by adding in a fun element to your life not allowing yourself to be trapped in a covid bubble.

i also stumbled onto a really useful article on the  joyful expressive trend, it really got me excited to start sampling as it was exactly how I felt and something i was dying to explore!!

The indiviualists 

https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.is.ed.ac.uk/fashion/article/87908#page_5

The individualists is a trend that really speaks to me. For my S/S 21 I will be designing a garment that is fun, youthful and maximalist. The individualist push fashion to the limits with their innovative and fun approach, they create their own trend with their exaggerated shapes, quirky pattern and fun outlook on fashion. Avant Guarde fashion plays a big part as everything is over the top for that shock factor on the runway. This year I want to create bold, fun textiles with a sustainability element, reusing and repurposing alternative materials just with a quirky and maximalist approach for the quirky youths.

Attachment styles with fabric!

I wanted to research other methods and ways to attach different fabric types. As I was using an array of fabrics wit different properties i.e pleather- thick, tulle- thin dainty, I wanted to look at the best way to attach these without just coating and trapping them in fabric, as maintaining the delicate feeling was essential.

I looked at this really interesting blog. Something I was interested in was bondaweb/ fusible web, this is something I have used before in previous projects, the webbing acts like a glue and sticks the fabric onto another using heat. This is something i’m exploring as it fits the brief “fuse” perfectly. Fabric glue is also something i’ve never used before so its something i want to explore and experiment with. The article also looks at hot glue however for this project I don’t feel it would work as well.

https://sewingmachineclub.com/fuse-fabric-together/  

I thought about using stitch however because its for a burn, using stitch would leave tiny spaces for bacterial to pass through and get into the stitch marks- there also a risk that the stitching comes undone.

I decided to use fabric glue to fuse together. The pleather didn’t work with the bondaweb. I also really liked that the fabric glue didn’t disturb the fabric, it stuck all the shapes on perfectly without puncturing the fabric.

 

Material experiment- Fusing!

“Fusing” the idea of joining two things together.

Looking at smart materials we looked into non-traditional ways of textile design i.e innovative fabrics. Using materials that favour function over aesthetic.

We were given a list of materials and this is what I used to start of the concept of fusing.I started off with fusing flat contrasting materials like the cotton and the spaced mesh, fused using an iron and melting between the plastic. This has a lot of positive attributes like it now being waterproof and easily cleaned.

I then wondered what it would be like with something chunky like a knit. would it trap? how would the plastic melt with the knit? how could this benefit the arm? I choose a thin base and layered this under the cut out pleather. The idea of this overlapping came from the cells under the microscope, the chaotic energy clashing with the more open circular structure and I’ve tried to keep this element throughout all the sampling, then having the crazy loopy knit on top again adds to the really small overlapping cells taking charge of the larger structures. Encased within the plastic did work however it didn’t stick to the knit as much as id hoped leaving just a large lump in the middle of the sample, this meant it wouldn’t benefit the wound or body but instead apply pressure.

 

I then played around with melting and heat transfer. I choose to cut out circular heat transfers to mimic the cells under the scope, I used the iron to apply heat and i feel it worked well, as I love print it was essential to have at least one printed element within a sample. I also used heat to melt little circular fabric pieces, as they were meltable i was able to melt them into circles, this was perfect as it embodied the cells irregular structure and membrane wall. I layered these on top snd was able to tramp within a sheet of fabric combining all the techniques into one fabric.

 

Working with silicone!

Working with silicone has been really interesting however its came with a lot of challenges. When looking at Lucy Simpson’s work I thought it would be easy to manipulate and mark make into but I was wrong.

I started off getting to grips with the silicone on cardboard, this gave me some time to get use to working with the medium. I wanted to incorporate my skillset into this by using my mark-making techniques, I looked at my reference images and started to be reminded about the lines within the microscopic structures and how this juxtaposes with the small circular clusters.

Looking at this in regards to mark-making I thought about creating lines. I used a ruler to score through the silicone whilst it was wet and allowing to dry for an hour, this created a really cool texture on the cardboard. I also played around with spreading the silicone really thin across some of the fabric, to change the texture of it. The smooth almost rubber texture resembles the cellulose within the plant cell, relating my project even more towards my intended brief.

I also played around with smoothing out the silicone and using an object to morph a pattern into it which sounded like a good idea but in reality just turned out terrible! the object got stuck, it was all different layers and just a disaster!

Moving onto fabric i decided to look at both of the techniques combined as the dragging method was successful in changing the feeling but adding some mark-making gave the piece a more interesting feel. Looking back at my original images i really liked the structures alignment of the cells which also related to the lines within the mark-making.

I decided to use the mesh material as I was curious if I could create this cellulose opacity. Would the silicone sink through? would it create a pattern? would it not work at all?

I feel the silicone worked really well! it gave the fabric a new texture but also body! the mark-making also replicated the cell structure and having the small elements of pattern conveyed the clusters. I also feel the piece although using a heavy material still looks delicate and weightless which fits really well with the opacity and texture of the cell!

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